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It was in Saint-Emilion, revered for its vineyards and culinary legacy, that Thomas Morel, himself a native of the south-west region, earnt his culinary stripes alongside Fabrice Giraud at Grand Barrail restaurant. From here his path would take him to Chez Cyril in Langon and Auberge des Pins in Sabres. This initial experience was all it would take to stir his passion. Further to five years working with Thierry Mottard, Maître restaurateur at Bistrot d’Antan in Bruges, in 2009, a twist of fate dramatically changed Thomas Morel’s course when he met Denis Franc, manager of Pavillon des Boulevards in Bordeaux. For Thomas Morel, the experience was nothing short of a culinary revelation, and the start of a seven-year collaboration culminating in his eventual acquisition of the restaurant. A much-revered Michelin-star was the ultimate accolade.

A passionate chef, his cuisine is an insight into his true character, as he gives free rein to his inspiration and desires. His guiding light? “The unstinting desire to make gastronomy accessible to all, delivering simplicity, flavour and enjoyment.” It is these shared values of gastronomic excellence and authenticity that have brought Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte and Thomas Morel together. “What attracted me most about Nicolas Feuillatte was the emphasis on people and human relationships, which I replicate with the clientele in my restaurant.”

In these sophisticated surrounds, Thomas Morel’s exacting, creative cuisine harmonises to perfection with the sincere, natural and smiling front of house service courtesy of his wife Célia, for whom the art of hospitality allies with a kind, warm and convivial approach. “Her ultimate aim is to ensure the guests have a truly unforgettable experience.”

Recipe

Chef Thomas Morel embodies a certain idea of south-west gastronomy, where he relishes combining seasonal produce, to which he adds a surprising twist, just like his signature dish of “Veal heart sweetbread on an ocean-inspired salad, grilled oyster and potato straw fries,” served to perfection with Champagne Organic Extra-Brut. A stunning find!

Veal heart sweetbread on an ocean-inspired salad, grilled oyster and potato straw fries

Serves 4

Ingredients:
4 veal heart sweetbreads (150g each),
15cl salt-free soy sauce
4 no.2 oysters

For the salad:
100g de samphire
100g mangetout
100g mustard greens or mizuna

For the jus :
Selection of mixed vegetables to prepare a stock (2 carrots, 1 leek, 1 onion, 1 garlic bulb, 1 stick celery)
Veal (bones and tendrons etc.)

Potato Straw fries :
2 Bintje potatoes
Sunflower oil

Realisation:

To prepare the jus:
Brown the veal and retain as much of the meat juices as possible.
Add the vegetables and brown again.
Add water to cover (or white stock if preferred).
Bring to boil and reduce by half.
Strain the liquid and reduce again to obtain a syrupy texture.

Ocean-inspired salad:
Dice the salad ingredients into small cubes 'brunoise' style.

Potato straw fries:
Slice the potatoes very thinly using a mandolin, then using a knife, cut the slices into fine straws like skinny fries.
Rinse well in water to remove any starch.
Dry well using a clean tea towel, then fry at 190°C. Remove from the oil using a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen roll and lightly season with salt.

Veal sweetbreads:
Blanch the sweetbreads for 10 mins starting with a pan of cold water..
Remove the outer membrane for a more refined taste.
Transfer to a frying pan and sauté in olive oil until brown, then deglaze the pan with soy sauce and a little water.
A knob of butter can also be added at this stage.
Cook the sweetbreads well, turning regularly in the pan until evenly coloured on both sides.

To serve:

Flash grill the oysters.
Gently heat the salad with a dash of olive oil and freshly ground pepper.
Arrange the warm salad on a plate using an 8cm ring mould.
Stack the veal sweetbread then the oyster.
Pour over the veal jus and finish off with the potato straw fries.

Finely chopped mushrooms can also be added to the salad (ceps, morels, chanterelles or truffle), which all harmonise perfectly with this recipe.

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